Argopuro Walida
In 2020 we began exploring Southeast Asia in search of coffees shaped by people rather than scale. East Java stood out, long known for commercial production yet lacking traceability and transparency. It was here that we met Pak Muhlisin of Argopuro Walida, a young producer with a quiet but determined vision for Indonesian specialty coffee. Our first visit came in 2022, when borders reopened after the pandemic. Reaching the mill required five to six hours by motorbike over mountain roads and rural terrain. The journey was long, but the welcome was warm. Pak Muhlisin shared his early experiments, including a lactic natural Robusta. Fruity, slightly bitter, and surprisingly comforting, it hinted at what this place could become.
Recognising both challenge and opportunity, Pak Muhlisin expanded into a new farm, Damarkandang, at 1600 to 1700 metres above sea level. Cool temperatures and fertile soil naturally enhance cup quality. He planted multiple varieties in a single plot, including Orange Bourbon, Yellow Caturra, Typica, Maragogype, and Java. This approach allows for careful microlot separation and expressive fermentation, marking a turning point that sets Argopuro Walida apart from conventional production.
Attention to detail is evident in every stage. Parchment is secured and rested to stabilise moisture. Sorting happens in two stages, first mechanically and then by hand, ensuring size and density define each microlot. One favourite, the Small Bean lot, resembles Ethiopian coffees with bright fruity notes and a subtle green herbal layer. Carbonic maceration is carried out in two-ton stainless steel tanks, while smaller experimental lots are managed in sealed barrels. Drying is organised across three spaces, with raised beds for specialty coffee and patios for commercial coffee, and cherries are turned daily to ensure consistency.
After years of sourcing and visiting, we are proud to present Pak Muhlisin’s work. This year marks our fifth consecutive harvest together, reflecting our long-term commitment to producers who share our values of quality, transparency, sustainability, and humanity. For us, specialty coffee is built on people investing in a better future, one harvest at a time.
