INDONESIA DAMARKANDANG OREN BOURBON KOLAH

East Java is a true haven for fine Indonesian specialty coffee growers. Its geography unfolds in mountain terraces, cooled by highland air and sheltered by shade trees, forming a landscape that quietly recalls the coffee gardens of Panama. On the slopes of Mount Argopuro sits Argopuro Cooperative, led by Pak Muhlisin, one of the most passionate producers we know, consistently crafting some of the most adventurous and experimental coffees to emerge from Indonesia.

This year, Pak Muhlisin turned his focus to anaerobic fermentation using a water-bath method. Taking full advantage of Damarkandang Estate’s naturally cool climate, coffee cherries are sealed in plastic bags and submerged in water tanks for 72 hours, maintaining an estimated fermentation temperature of around 12°C. This slow, cold fermentation encourages specific microbial activity, amplifying tropical fruit character and sparkling, wine-like aromatics. The lot is composed entirely of a single Orange Bourbon varietal, an expression that feels both precise and playful.

In the cup, the cool fermentation highlights juicy pineapple with a tropical sweetness of melon and guava on filter. As espresso, the profile shifts toward brighter, tart notes of pineapple jam, orange tart and a tangy black tea finish. With milk, the coffee becomes more rounded and comforting, recalling graham cracker while retaining its anaerobic edge through yellow bubblegum and floral candy tones. It’s remarkable to witness how far Pak Muhlisin has evolved in his craft, a quiet mastery revealed cup by cup.